The Crabby Cook - by Jessica Harper

This time of year the marketplace is flooded with images of cute animals—lamby-kins and chickies and duckies and bunnies. We home cooks are expected to come up with an Easter menu that includes a slaughtered, roasted version of one of those little cute-niks, but it’s hard to get your mind around it. Just try going through checkout at Ralph’s with a leg of lamb in your cart while there’s a stuffed, fleecy-white relative of that leg’s former owner staring down at you from atop the cash register.

Ham is less guilt-inducing because the piggy is not regularly featured in the crush of Easter creature-cuteness. Plus it’s called ham, not piggy, so you can mentally disassociate it from the darling, pink animal whose butt it once was. Read More